While most visitors to Costa Rica immediately head for the popular “Gringo Train” locations like La Fortuna, Manuel Antonio and Nosara, there are so many incredible places to visit in between!
When our original travel plans got turned upside down I immediately reached out to my contacts on the ground to find out how we should spend our first day in Costa Rica after landing in San Jose, and the verdict was unanimous: head north to the Central Valley.
This area is incredibly accessible and can either be a wonderful day trip from San Jose or the first stop on your Costa Rica road trip itinerary. How much you do depends on when you start out and what your interests are.
Vamanos!
💡 Insider tip: We rented a car from Adobe to dive in to Costa Rica on our own, but if you want to let someone else do the driving you can book a very similar itinerary with a guide.
Central Valley Day Trip from San Jose
Hacienda Alsacia coffee farm
You’ll leave the city and head north to Costa Rica’s Central Valley. While this area is popular as a day trip from San Jose (including among Ticos), as you go further north you’ll enjoy beautiful scenery and thinner crowds.
Your first stop in Costa Rica may seem as “un Costa Rican” as it gets but I promise it’s worthwhile: the Starbucks Hacienda Alsacia coffee farm. We met plenty of locals who had come her on a beautiful Saturday morning just to enjoy a good cup of coffee, tasty breakfast and the beautiful setting. It’s only 30-45 minutes from the airport depending on traffic.
Since this area wasn’t originally on our family’s Costa Rica itinerary we just dropped by to eat. But if you’re planning in advance, I’ve heard that this is actually one of the best coffee tours in Costa Rica! You’ll spend 90 minutes walking around the farm with a guide learning about the entire process, seeing the equipment and also tasting some coffee (or tea) at the end. If you choose to do the tour right after arriving in Costa Rica, you might want to arrive a few minutes early to grab the kids some pastries to tide them over.
Though we weren’t able to get on a tour, we did enjoy the cool coffee and chocolate flight that takes you through the range of roasts and explains their flavor notes. There are also plenty of non-coffee drinks for the whole family. Food items include some American Starbucks standards but a lot of local fare – I ordered a traditional Costa Rican breakfast of gallo pinto and eggs, while my husband started his day with empanadas! We got to enjoy all of our food and drink while overlooking a lush valley with a crashing waterfall filled with butterflies and birds.
Volcan Poás
One stop we didn’t make in the area is the Poás Volcano. It’s just 30 minutes from Hacienda Alsacia and an incredible opportunity to see the caldera of an active volcano. That said, often you can’t really see the eerie blue lake in the caldera due to cloud cover and volcanic gases. If you choose to go, there’s an easy half-mile walk to the observation point.
Be sure to buy tickets in advance, either before you head to Costa Rica or while you’re in an area with good cell service. The website for purchasing tickets is the same one you’ll use for other Costa Rica National Parks and it’s really clunky. I recommend doing it from a computer, and have everyone’s passports handy.
Now as for why we didn’t go… first, one of our kids has a real (and understandable) phobia of active volcanos. Second, the week we arrived in Costa Rica Volcan Poás decided to get active. We’re talking major magma movement underground, high levels of volcanic gas, seismic activity and more. It finally erupted with significant ash fall just a week later.
The moral of the story? Check conditions before you go and be flexible!
La Paz Waterfall Gardens
The next stop on your day trip through the Central Valley of Costa Rica is another 30 minutes north at La Paz Waterfall Gardens. These beautiful gardens encompass an animal sanctuary, five waterfalls and plenty of trails to walk. You can even stay on-site (though it’s very expensive even at the cheapest time of year).
This is an ideal stop when you’re visiting Costa Rica with kids because they’ll have an opportunity to see some of the country’s wildlife that is very hard to spot out in nature (even with a guide). Rescued animals housed here include tropical birds, butterflies, frogs, several species of monkeys and lots of big cats – ocelots, margays, a jaguar, and even a puma.
There is a cultural area with a replica of a traditional Costa Rican home, where you can sample coffee and baked goods. This area also has a small petting zoo with farm animals and a beautifully painted traditional cart.
You’ll get a wonderful taste of waterfalls as you walk the trails from one to another. We did skip the last one, which you can see from the road after you leave if you drive past the Gardens. At the end of the waterfall walk, there’s a bus that takes you back up to the main entrance.
A few logistics to keep in mind… We saw all of the animals and waterfalls and took the bus back in almost exactly two hours, though the kids spent almost an hour more fishing in Trout Lake after that! Be sure everyone has appropriate shoes on, as some of the paths can be slippery. You’ll be walking downhill almost the entire time thankfully, but you’ll definitely get your steps in – we walked about 4 miles in total. If you have a baby or toddler in tow, I would recommend a carrier rather than a stroller.
💡 Insider tip: This area sits on the edge of a cloud forest, so it can be cool and visibility can be low – check out the unedited photo below. But it’s a really wonderful opportunity to check out such a unique ecosystem. We did get caught in very thick clouds/fog in the afternoon and had to drive cautiously. Consider yourself warned!
Where to eat
While you’re driving around this area, be sure to stop for fresh strawberries! You can often get them by the side of the road, straight from the farmer. They’re absolutely incredible and a regional specialty.
Smoothies Vara Blanca
I’m so glad we stopped at Smoothies Vara Blanca on our way out of the area! This adorable spot has wonderful coffee, strawberry smoothies, baked goods, Tico breakfast and more. It’s the perfect place to linger if you want a slow morning!
Restaurante El Sabor De La Montaña
We had a great traditional Costa Rican meal at Restaurante El Sabor De La Montaña in Poasito. You can get all of the standard options here, plus they have a reasonably priced kids’ menu with both American and Costa Rican options.
Terrazas del Bosque
If you’re eating before the sun goes down, consider Terrazas del Bosque just down the street from El Sabor de la Montaña. They also serve up traditional Costa Rican food, but the restaurant is basically one big terrace that’s open to the cloud forest surrounding it!
Where to stay
Want to spend more time enjoying this peaceful corner of Costa Rica? If it’s available book a room at Poas Volcano Lodge. It looks absolutely lovely and has charming rooms of all sizes. The lodge is located between Poasito and Vara Blanca so you’ll have plenty of restaurants to choose from.
For a splurge, stay at Peace Lodge on the grounds of La Paz Waterfall Gardens. It’s a beautiful, luxurious hotel and located in the middle of a wildlife corridor so you’ll see plenty of creatures around!
Stay tuned for more Costa Rica travel inspiration!
